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Mr.
Stephen Bonner
Writer, Teacher, and Buyer of wines and spirits for the restaurant
trade.
The
Wines We Tasted:
Chateau Bonnet Entre-deux-Mers, France
Konrad & Co. Sauv Blanc, New Zealand
Wyndham Estate Semillon 1997, Australia
Concha Y Toro Late Harvest Sauv Blanc 2000, Chile
Chateau
de la Tour Reserve,
France
Porcupine Ridge Merlot 1999, South Africa
Finca Los Primos Malbec, Argentina
Valdivieso Cab Franc Reserve 1998, Chile
Pirramimma Petit Verdot 1999, Australia
Finca Los Primos Cab Sauvignon, Arg.
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Our
Setting:
Seasons Restaurant,
Queen Elizabeth Park |
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Bordeaux is one of the most famed and acclaimed wine regions in
the world. Bordeaux has had a large influence on the New World
and its plantings: from Carmenere in Chile to Malbec in Argentina,
Semillon in Australia, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc
and Sauvignon Blanc all over the world. Famed Bordeaux wineries
have purchased property throughout the Southern Hemisphere. Many
Southern Hemisphere winemakers consider Bordeaux as the benchmark
to which they aspire. Our guest speaker, Mr. Stephen Bonner helped
to educate us on these varietals, describe the style of Bordeaux
wines and compare southern hemisphere wineries interpretation.
Several of the wines in this tasting were provided by the Delf
Group Inc.

Stephen started off in the wine trade in the early 1980's as a
wine shop manager for Oddbins in London, England. Today, more
than fifteen years later, he continues to write, teach, and buy
wines and spirits for the restaurant trade. Stephen talked about
Bordeaux's geography, climate and soils, and how these three elements
combine to influences the wines of this region. He also pointed
out to us that Bordeaux is about "blending" wines from
classic varieties to form a wine greater than it's individual
components.
Our reception wine was the Chateau Bonnet
Entre-deux-Mers from Bordeaux. This wine was also used
as our white benchmark to compare southern hemisphere white wines.
This wine comes from the famous Lurton family, which has been
making wine for 300 years. Jacques is the current winemaker and
travels the world to assist in winemaking. This wine is a blend
of 45% Sauvignon Blanc, 45% Semillon and 10% Muscadelle.
The wine was citrusy and crisp. The Semillon added some softness
to the wine. The Konrad & Co. Sauvignon Blanc (from
Delf) was the first southern hemisphere white wine. This was had
a bouquet showing capsicum, pine and gooseberry. The gooseberry
continued on the palate. There was more acidity compared to the
Bordeaux. The Wyndham Estate Semillon was noted by Stephen
as the benchmark Semillon in the world. This wine, eventhough
not aged in oak, had a oaky bouquet, due to the changes in the
wine over time. This wine a 1997 vintage will continue to develop
flavour and complexity over the next 5-6 years. The taste had
tropical and citrus flavours with light acidity.
The
last white wine was the Concha Y Toro Late Harvest Sauvignon
Blanc. This wine is a sweet, after-dinner wine and could not
be compared to the previous white wines. This wine was selected
to show what a southern hemisphere winery can produce in comparison
to the famous sweet wines of Barsac and Sauterne. The sweet Bordeaux
wines again use blends of Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc and Muscadelle.
This wine from Concha Y Toro is 100% Sauvignon Blanc. This wine
had a wonderful fruity nose and flavours of honey, apricot and
peach on the palate.
Our
red wines began with the 2001 Chateau de la Tour Reserve
from Bordeaux. This is a Bordeaux Superior wine, which indicates
better quality grapes, a slightly higher alcohol content (13.5%)
and a more specific location for the picked grapes. This wine
has 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot and some Cabernet Franc
and Malbec, and was aged in old oak. This was was deep red and
had significant legs on the glass due to it's high alcohol content.
Unripe blackberry and black current aromas were prsent. On the
palette there was some tannins, but not much complexity. Overall
a good wine.
The
Porcupine Ridge Merlot straddles the new and old world
styles. It has the intensity of reds from California or Australia
but balanced by the firm structure and elegance from a French
red. Porcupine Ridge is the sibling range to the illustrious Boekenhoutskloof
label. This particular wine had a bouquet of black cherries, plums
and other ripe red fruits. The wine had firm tannins (not too
much), fruitiness and sweetness on the palate.
Malbec
only makes around 10% of the Bordeaux blends. It has the richness
of a merlot but a more complex flavour. It is used in small amounts
in Bordeaux blends as it had a strong flavour that can take over
the flavours of other varietals in a blend. The Finca Los Primos
Malbec (from Delf) is 100% Malbec from Argentina. It is deep
purple. The bouquet had light oak and plum fruit. The wine had
rich mouth feel, with some tannins. An excellent value at $9.95.
The Valdivieso Cabernet Franc Reserve was also a very aromatic
wine. it has ripe fruit, black cherry and cedar aromas. The cedar
we were told comes from the medium toasted barrels used to age
this wine. This wine spent 18 months in French and American oak
barrels. It has fruit, oak, tobacco flavours in the mouth. The
Petit
Verdot is another lesser used grape in Bordeaux that is found
unblended in southern hemisphere wines. The Pirramimma Petit
Verdot from Australia comes from the MacLaren Vale, South
East of Adelaide. This area has a very hot mediterranean climate
and limestone clay soil (a classic soil type of Bordeaux). This
wine is big and bold. The colour is inky dark. It has a cedar
and vanilla bouquet from aging in all American oak barrels as
well as aromas of ripe, dark berries. The flavours are of oak,
vanilla and black cherry. Our last wine was the Finca Los Primos
Cabernet Sauvignon (from Delf). This wine is not as big or
concentrated as you would find with an Australian Cab. This wine
just recently came on the market in BC. This wine was aged in
oak for 8 months. Aromas of black pepper, cedar, and berry notes
are present. It has a soft, balanced mouth feel and flavors that
are similar to the aromas.
Tasting
Selection
Our favourite White wines are:
1.
Konrad & Co. Sauvignon Blanc
2. Chateau Bonnet Entre-deux-Mers
Our favourite Red wines are:
1. Pirramimma Petit Verdot
2. Valdivieso Cab Franc Reserve
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